On second look through my pictures, that north side couloir doesn’t look too bad. It might be a good way to go, certainly moreso later in the season as the sun builds strength. Hopefully the cornice doesn’t build as quickly.

Yeah, definitely becomes super hard to time with more solar input. Especially to get decent conditions the whole way, there’s a lot of terrain that funnels together and kills snow quality lower down. Bit of billy goating is good fun anyways. The north couloir that hooks up with it is pretty scary, at the time of Doug Sproule’s book it had yet to be skied, it’s a good amount of ice climbing most of the season. And a big cornice overlooking it, the way the terrain is there makes me think it’s massive, couldn’t actually see over it. So not really a safer ascent route, maybe if you’re a super confident ice climber but you’d still have to tunnel through who knows what at the top.

Also, why not go up the backside from the Tupper Glacier instead? Seems like a whole lot less exposure to me.